‘Samlor’, the three wheeled tricycle which trollied around locals and tourists for over the generations in Thailand is what Chef Joe and Saki have named their new eatery after. An eatery which sits on a corner of Charoenkrung road, surrounded with pointed arches that look into a relaxed and sparse dining setting.
A striking contrast to the latest version of 80/20 restaurant, also in Charoenkrung, to which the chefs founded and earned a Michelin Star and Asia’s 50 Best listing, but the difference is more so in spirit than purely design.
Chef Joe, looking more settled than I’ve seen him in years, mans a smaller, partially open kitchen with a service bar which lies adjacent to the dining room. Chef Saki who co creates recipes, specifically the desserts, along with her own brand of ice cream @yora.bkk , chats cheerfully to guests with adorable baby in arm.
It’s as though I’ve been here all my life, or at least a time before. It’s reminiscent of 80/20 in its earliest days but older and wiser and admittedly something I’d missed before it evolved into a more serious, fine dining concept.
Our purpose however is to experience one out of a series of casual fine dining pop ups, this one being Coalescent Cuisine. Thai ingredients through Global Lenses.
Our favourite dishes of the night being the Thai Wagyu / Miso Chili / Uni, the Eggplant / Sweet Basil, Squid, Tree Tomato, Lemon Verbena , Thai Wagyu / Pumpkin / Cha-om and the very funky yet fascinating River Fish / Wild Mushroom Rice / Foie Gras.
The Samlor team reminded us through their culinary storytelling, the exceptional creativity and talent which separates them as having a truly unique edge in Thai cooking. A recognisable one which has returned with a new name but same faces.
It’s important to note, when you finish a meal looking forward to what you will eat upon your return, you know they’re onto something good.
Samlor
1076 Charoen Krung Rd, Bangrak, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500
Hours: Wednesday to Monday (Tuseday close) from 11AM–2PM, 5–9PM
Tel: +66 (0)64 210 1520
Facebook / Instagram: @samlor.bkk
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